Sunday, January 8, 2012

Day 4: Qi Bao Zheng and Hangzhou

No trip to China is complete without experiencing the crushing crowds of an outdoor market and eating street food. Today we went to Qi Bao Zheng, one of the few remaining “Old Shanghai” sections of town, and perused the offerings of the local merchants. The shops were squeezed into a tiny alleyway, and a sea of shoppers pushed and shoved their way past each other, trying to get to their respective destinations. We ambled along, letting ourselves be propelled by the masses, stopping to sample bits of food offered by the hawkers. We had lamb skewers, red bean sticky rice, sugar cane juice, Korean mochee, and takoyaki (octopus). My mother bought a pair of fur lined shoes for the jaw droppingly low price of 19 RMB ($3 USD). I picked up a beautiful qipao. There was lovely scenery to take in, too: a lazily flowing river, graceful bridges, and pretty little boats.

After we stuffed ourselves at Qi Bao Zheng, we got onto one of the new high speed trains for an hour and a half ride to Hangzhou. The train is a sleek piece of work, and I’m reminded once again how far behind Europe and Asia the United States has fallen in terms of its railway technology. The train glided over the tracks at over 200 miles per hour, quiet as a whisper and smooth as silk. It was way better than the Acela J (Side note: now that I’m back in the States, I’ve now been informed that the high speed rail is a subject of controversy because its lack of riders has so far made it a losing enterprise for the Chinese government, and also because it doesn’t have a very good safety record. But my experience on it was a positive one.)

It was nearly nightfall by the time we got to Hangzhou. I had to do a bit of research to fully understand the significance of this town. I’ve seen it featured in lots of Chinese TV dramas, and I had a fair idea of what it was—there’s a lake, the West Lake (Xi Hu), where the hero and heroine always go to have their romantic interludes. There’s always a lot of fog and lily pads and chirping birds. It turns out there’s a reason why Hangzhou has such a storied reputation. For a thousand years, kings, artists, pilgrims, and nameless plain folk have descended on the shores of beautiful West Lake to admire its stunning beauty. It’s unofficially known as “heaven on earth.” It’s where emperors go to fall in love and poets retire to write their last verses. During the day, a gentle lake breeze whispers through the swaying willows, and during the night, moonbeams dance over the placid water. Even though the modern day version of Xi Hu is a booming tourist attraction, with stores and restaurants crowding out some of its natural beauty, it was still incredible to stand on its shores and think about all the illustrious stories of love, intrigue, and betrayal that have taken place there since the Southern Song Dynasty.

Dinner was an eye-opening experience. Instead of a menu, we were invited to head to a room where fish were still swimming and vegetables were still growing in pits to pick out what we wanted to have for dinner. I’d heard of such places, but never got to experience it for myself. Like all things I’ve eaten in China, the food was out-of-the-world delicious, but as a bonus, was also very healthy!


A view of the canal running through Qi Bao Zheng. Modern Shanghai buildings are in the backdrop.

Couldn't get enough of the gorgeous buildings. 

Pan enjoys some takoyaki :-)

Yum, street food! Cooking up something delicious. Unfortunately, I forget what, LOL. 
Gives you an idea of how narrow the street is and how many people were there.

Stuffed lotus root.

Enjoying the high speed rail on the way to Hang Zhou.

Chicken!

Seafood?

Chinese people really like to study what they eat.

Chinese mitten crab ( 蟹  ), a Shanghai delicacy, on the left, and winter melon in the center. 


Friday, January 6, 2012

Day 3: Suzhou and Zhou Zhuang

I'm actually back in the States now and more or less recovered from the most wretched bout of jet lag. The censorship gods foiled my blogging attempts while I was in China, so now I'll start back-posting....


From the day before (12/15 aka Day 2): Meeting with our good friend from Cleveland, Ming. He used to tutor me in math and probably deserves a lion's share of the credit for getting me into Princeton :) It was great catching up with him and his wife, Liying, and their daughter, Melissa, whom I remember only as a little newborn.

Suzhou was gorgeous. It’s 2,500 years old and full of pagodas, gardens, bridges, and canals. We visited the drolly named Humble Administrator’s Garden, so christened because the public servant who owned the place decided he needed to build himself an extravagant estate in order to “humbly commune with nature.” See pictures below.

Our next destination was Zhou Zhuang. Here was where I saw two very different realities in China collide in what turned out to be quite a sobering experience. Zhou Zhuang is another ancient locale, a village built around canals, not unlike Venice. There are beautiful bridges framed by weeping willows and quaint little shops crowded along the shore. But it’s the middle of winter in the Jiang Nan area… there were biting winds that pierced through our jackets, and few tourists were out. The place was like a ghost town, but the shopkeepers who depend on the rich city dwellers and foreign visitors to make a living were clearly struggling. Our party of five paid a thinly clad older gentleman (maybe my father’s age) a mere $7 US to pull us in a rickshaw. He was wheezing during the entire trip, but was so pleased to have our business. People begged us to come into their shops… we didn’t, because the bitter cold made us want to leave as soon as we got there. We took some photos and retreated back into the comfort of our car to go back to our warm hotel room.

Between being constantly chauffeured around the city by our driver, lazing around the glass-enclosed pool at the hotel, and strolling down eight-lane avenues in Shanghai, I didn’t get any sense of the exotic. It’s not that much different from New York. I kept wondering when I’ll see the “real” China, until I realized that this is China--a study in contrasts. Compare the stunning opulence of Shanghai and the painful poverty of Qing Pu, where we drove a mere 30 miles outside the city to visit Suzhou and Zhou Zhuang. You hear all about China’s meteoric rise everywhere: on TV, on the radio, in the news, but I had to see it to really believe it. The cities in China teem with luxury, propped up by inexpensive labor and a burgeoning economy, but there’s a dark underbelly comprsied of those left behind, in city ghettoes and tattered hovels in the country side. It reminds me of a talk given by Jeff Shuck I heard once at the latest NTEN conference, in which he mentioned that in order to be in the top 20% of the world income-wise, one needs only to earn a mere $20,000 US a year (May not be the exact numbers--they've gotten fuzzy in my head and I can't find the original slides, though googling confirms the ballpark figure. He probably got the numbers from World Bank economist Banko Milanovic). I know that some people in China earn only about $300 (1800 RMB) a month. It certainly gives me pause when I thoughtlessly throw away 20 or 30 RMB on some cheap souvenir. What translates to only $5 US is worth a lot to some in China!


Day 2 breakfast! The Indigo gets full points from me for breakfast selection. This was the "Shanghai option."

Another Indigo breakfast option: the "Western" style breakfast.

Standing in front of the one the many beautiful gardens in Suzhou.

Gorgeous furniture inside a gazebo in the Humble Administrator's Garden.

Delicious bowl of noodles from a local noodle shop in Suzhou for 10 RMB!

Our rickshaw driver. I remain somewhere between fascinated and appalled?

My drink. The Revolutionary Frappe. It was not very good, LOL.

One of the dishes from dinner. We asked our driver to take us to a local Shanghai joint (non-touristy, please). This Shanghai style sweet and sour fish was delicious! 

Roasted pig feet we bought from Zhou Zhuang (admittedly out of pity for the shopkeepers). It's a famous Zhou Zhuang recipe and was delectable.